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Lining Fabrics

A lining hides the inside of a garment and makes it more comfortable to wear. Because it is smooth, the jacket glides over a jumper instead of clinging to it. Linings are used in jackets, coats, skirts and bags.

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Lining fabric is thin and light so it adds no bulk, and it has a smooth surface that creates the characteristic glide. At the same time it protects the seams and the outer fabric from abrasion on the inside.

The lining is usually cut slightly wider than the outer fabric. The extra width is worked in as a pleat at the back – it gives way as you move, so the lining does not tear when you reach forward.

Because lining fabrics are smooth, they like to slip while sewing. Fine needles, fine thread and pins placed in the seam allowance all help; a narrow turned hem suits the lower edge.

Frequently asked questions

Why is the lining cut wider?

So that it gives way as you move. The extra width is worked in as a pleat and stops the lining from tearing or pulling in the outer fabric when you stretch your arms forward.

Which lining suits a jacket?

A smooth, light fabric that glides well. Make sure it is easy to care for and tolerates the same washing temperature as the outer fabric, otherwise the parts no longer match after the first wash.

Can I leave out the lining?

With unlined summer jackets and bags, often yes. The inner seams should then be finished neatly or bound with bias binding so the inside looks tidy and does not fray.

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